Crispy fried pasta pairs a savory crunch with chickpeas
Italians know well that the texture of pasta matters greatly. Hence, the emphasis on cooking it until just barely al dente, or until tender, but with a pleasant chew. But that’s not where the lesson stops. In Lecce, an ancient city in southern Italy, we learned the delicious joy of mixing pasta textures — some perfectly al dente, some fried in olive oil until lightly browned, nutty and wonderfully crisp. We were at an understated eatery called Le Zie Trattoria, where chef/owner Anna Carmela Perrone cooks up glistening stacks of eggplant planks and creamy fava bean purees, among many great choices. But the standout is her ciceri e tria, a simple tangle of broad strips of pasta paired with chickpeas. Except it isn’t all that simple. The pasta in the dish is cooked two ways: Half is fried un...